{"id":719,"date":"2024-12-28T23:33:30","date_gmt":"2024-12-28T20:33:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hitsauskurssi.fi\/?p=719"},"modified":"2026-03-29T21:11:06","modified_gmt":"2026-03-29T18:11:06","slug":"hitsauspoyta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hitsauskurssi.fi\/en\/hitsauspoyta\/","title":{"rendered":"Make your own welding table!"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Hitsausp\u00f6yt\u00e4<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kurssilla keskustelun kohteena on usein harjoituksissa k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4 hitsausp\u00f6yt\u00e4. Rakenne on varsin yksinkertainen, joten se soveltuu mainiosti ensimm\u00e4iseksi harjoitusprojektiksi kurssin j\u00e4lkeen – sek\u00e4 my\u00f6s muille vaikka et olisi ikin\u00e4 kuullutkaan koko kurssista.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mik\u00e4li seuraat ohjeita materiaalien osalta tarkasti, p\u00f6yt\u00e4 kasautuu kuin palapeli ilman kovin suurta kiroilua. P\u00f6yd\u00e4t eiv\u00e4t ole mit\u00e4\u00e4n suojeltuja salaisuuksia, joten t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kaikki mit\u00e4 tarvitset valmistukseen, olkaa hyv\u00e4t.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This article covers the required materials, where to source them, an overview of the manufacturing process, and DXF files for the necessary laser-cut parts. Premium<\/a>-course participants receive the tabletop as part of their course package. The tabletop alone works well for welding, even without a frame. Simply set it on a normal workbench with small feet made from four bolts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a courtesy, I kindly ask that you build this table primarily for yourself, your workplace, or a friend, rather than producing them for sale. But if you do decide to start selling them, at least consider sharing a commission\u2014or, at the very least, some warm thoughts in this direction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"P\u00f6yt\u00e4
Illustration of the assembled table. The lower section is designed to accommodate four SmartStore 31 boxes. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"P\u00f6yt\u00e4
Bare frame to simplify the manufacturing process. The bottom plate features numerous holes for cargo straps for easier portability.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Quick links to the content<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DXF files<\/a>
Steel tubes for the frame<\/a>
Other accessories and tools<\/a>

Making the table:
Top part of the frame<\/a>
Legs<\/a>
Bottom plate<\/a>
Mounting plates for wheels<\/a>
Final welds<\/a>
Table top plate<\/a>
Welding table done<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

DXF files<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Below, you can download the files for laser-cutting the table top plate, bottom plate, and wheel mounting plates. DXF is a commonly used file format for laser cutting, containing a precise two-dimensional representation of the desired part.\n\nIn addition to the file, the cutting service will need information on the material type, material thickness, and the required quantity. To simplify ordering, the filenames already include the material type, thickness, and the number of pieces needed for a single table. They are in Finnish language, use online translator if needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"P\u00f6yt\u00e4levy
The tabletop is on the left. The bottom plate is on the right, with corner notches to facilitate assembly. The wheel mounting plates are not shown in the image, but you will find them later in the article.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n
P\u00f6yt\u00e4levy, ter\u00e4s 5mm, 1kpl<\/a>Download<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Alalevy, ter\u00e4s 3mm, 1kpl<\/a>Download<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Renkaan kiinnityslevy, 6mm, 4kpl<\/a>Download<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

You can send the DXF files above to a laser cutting service of your choice. Water jet cutting is also a viable option. Keep in mind that laser cutting services primarily cater to business customers, though there may be exceptions.

In the Helsinki metropolitan area, I can recommend two excellent companies:

Keravan Ter\u00e4smiehet Oy<\/a>
Laserle Oy<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

If you\u2019ve never ordered laser-cut parts before, you can use the following text as a template for your email<\/em>. Attach the DXF files to your message.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hi,
I would like to request a quote for laser-cut parts as per the attached files.
Material for all the parts is steel.
The file names include the material thickness and required quantity.

Thank you!

[Your Name]
[Your Company]
[Your Phone Number]<\/em>
<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Steel tubes for the frame<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The frame is made from 50 x 30 mm steel tubing with a 3 mm wall thickness. <\/em>It is commonly referred to as \"rectangular tube,\" \"RHS tube,\" or \"structural steel.\"\n\nWith some luck, you might find this tubing at stores like Puuilo, Motonet, or IKH. However, as a business customer, you're more likely to source it easily from a local steel supplier.\n\nPersonally, in the Helsinki metropolitan area, I frequently use a small gem in Tattarisuo: Ter\u00e4starvike Oy<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hitsausp\u00f6yt\u00e4
Tubes for the frame from left to right: 390mm - 790mm - 1030mm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You can cut the tubes to the required length yourself or order them pre-cut from the supplier.\n\nKeep in mind that the dimensions are specifically designed for 50 x 30 mm tubing. If you choose a different tube size, you will likely need to make some adjustments to fit the laser-cut parts and tubes together properly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are the required lengths and quantities:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n

390mm
790mm
1030mm<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

2pcs
4pcs
2pcs<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Other accessories and tools<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

If and when you want a mobile version of your table (and yes, ALL workshop furniture should be on wheels), you'll need four caster wheels. The laser-cut parts and table height have been designed for 125mm wheels. These are fairly universal, and even if you buy them from different stores, the dimensions tend to be quite similar.\n\nAnd make sure to get locking wheels\u2014never go for non-locking ones! You can find these at Puuilo, Motonet, or IKH.

125mm locking caster wheel, Motonet<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Needed tools:
- Angle grinder
- Tape measure
- Square
- Clamps
- Bolts and nuts to clamp caster wheels (M8 x 25mm bolt)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Making the table:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once you have all the materials listed above, the actual work begins. You will start by preparing the 50 x 30 RHS tubes for welding. Round off sharp edges and grind the surface clean from the areas that will be welded. Remember to clean an area of 20\u201330mm around each weld zone to have enough of clean surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top part of the frame<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Assembly begins with the frame beneath the tabletop. Check HERE<\/a> - the right-side image shows the top section of the frame naked. It consists of a rectangle made from four tubes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"P\u00f6yt\u00e4levyn
The assembly of the welding table begins from the frame under the table top plate.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The following tubes are required:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n

1030mm
390mm<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

2pcs
2pcs<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Find the flattest possible surface for assembly. In the image below, the frame is assembled on top of an already finished welding table, which might be a bit confusing in the picture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hitsausp\u00f6yt\u00e4
Making the table begins. On the right and on the left are the 390mm tubes, bottom and top are the 1030mm tubes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Position the 390mm tubes so that their ends sit inside the longer tubes by 20mm. This provides a good welding surface in the corner and the hole pattern on the tabletop remains unobstructed.\nTack-weld the tubes together first\u2014do not make full welds yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Putkien
Note the prepped surfaces for welding. They have been grinded with a flap disk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Legs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Next you will need the 790mm tubes and the laser-cut bottom plate. Position the lower plate symmetrically in the center of the frame. There should be around 60mm of clearance on both sides (depending on cut accuracy). Use the corner notches in the bottom plate as guides for positioning the 790mm tubes (legs).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Alalevyn
Bottom plate will work as a guide for the table legs - which are the 790mm tubes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Place each 790mm tube into the corner notches of the lower plate. Do this one leg at a time to minimize hassle. Use a square to align the legs as straight as possible. Keep in mind that the cut ends of the tubes are never perfectly straight. And the legs will slightly pull toward the tack welds\u2014this is normal. They will be straightened in the next step.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"Kaksi
Two legs tack welded in place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Heftaus
One solid tack weld to the free outside corner is enough.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Bottom plate<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once all four legs are tack-welded, start positioning the lower plate. Measure 700mm up from the joint between the leg and frame (or 90mm down from the top of the leg). Mark this line and clean the area for welding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Alalevyn
Marks to each leg and pre-welding surface cleaning for bottom plate.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Viiva
Surface cleaned and mark line scraped with angle grinder cutting disk. This can be done with a sharpie or a scrape as well.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

At the 700mm mark, install temporary supports to hold the lower plate in place before tack-welding. I used laser-cut wheel mounting plates as supports, and secured the plates in place with Irwin Quickgrip<\/a> clamps - the best ones I've found that come in various sizes. You can use any method you prefer\u2014whatever works best for you. Ensure the marked line stays above the support block\u2014this guarantees sufficient storage space underneath the table.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tukilevy
Support plate fixed in place with a one hand quickgrip clamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Now the bottom plate can be lowered into position from the top. It should rest against the temporary support blocks. Bend the table legs so that they fit securely into the cut notches of the bottom plate.\nIf necessary, use a light ratchet strap (as shown in the image) to pull the legs into position. Once the legs are aligned with the notches, tack-weld them to the bottom plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Alalevy
Bottom plate has been lowered in place and table legs are bent in place with a light ratchet strap.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Mounting plates for wheels<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

After the bottom plate has been tack welded in place, insert the caster wheel mounting plates onto the ends of the 790mm tubes. Center each plate symmetrically on the tube ends. Tack-weld them in place. At this stage, the entire welding table frame (except the tabletop) is tack-welded together.\nBefore attaching the tabletop, it\u2019s best to fully weld the frame\u2014this makes handling much easier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Renkaiden
Caster wheel plates tack welded in place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Final welds<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When you are making the final welds, always rotate the frame into a position that makes welding easiest for you. My personal preference is to weld pulling the weld downward from top to bottom. If you prefer welding left to right (or vice versa), you may need to adjust the frame position accordingly. Following pictures show the frame in positions suitable to weld in vertical position, from top to bottom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hitsausp\u00f6yt\u00e4
Frame turned on it's side for better welding position.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

When welding the frame tubes (in fact any parts attached), you don\u2019t need to weld the frame tubes all around. Instead, only apply single welds at 90-degree corners, on both sides of each tube\u2014this means two welds per tube. Avoid welding the flat sections between tubes\u2014this offers no real benefit and only adds unnecessary work. If you\u2019re new to welding, you might question the strength of this approach. The answer: It\u2019s more than strong enough. Just observe similar welded joints in your surroundings and consider their load-bearing capacity. Compare that to the expected stress on your welding table. You will notice that the first part to fail would be the wheels, and even they can support 100kg+ per wheel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hitsattavat
Areas to be welded in the joints. Yellow \"HITSAA\" means \"weld\". Blue \"\u00c4L\u00c4 HITSAA\" means \"do not weld\".<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Table top plate<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The final step is to attach the table top plate into the frame. Place the tabletop on a flat surface. Flip the frame upside down and position it on top of the tabletop plate. This makes it easier to weld the tabletop from the inside. Alternatively, you can weld it while the table is upright\u2014whichever method feels best. I prefer as shown in the pictures. Measure the frame center over the tabletop and tack weld in place. After that you can do the final welds to attach the top plate to the frame. No need to over do the welds, evenly spaced 20-40mm welds will do. They only keep the plate from moving sideways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now it is time to install wheels. You will need M8 x 25mm bolts, washers and M8 nylock nuts. Bolt the wheels onto the mounting plates. Flip the table upright onto its wheels. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ehdotus
Example for the weld distribution for table top welds. Evenly spaced 20-40mm long welds will do fine.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Welding table done<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

And ta-da! The welding table is ready. Congratulations, you\u2019ve just made something extremely useful with your own hands. In the image below, you can see the ground-off heat marks on the tabletop\u2014these will give you an idea of the spacing I\u2019ve chosen for the welds when attaching the tabletop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re wondering about the holes in the table, here are the explanations:<\/p>\n\n\n\n